How to Identify a High-Quality Dress Shirt

A well-crafted dress shirt is an investment in style, comfort and confidence. It's the cornerstone of a refined wardrobe. This guide reveals the secrets to identifying an exceptional dress shirt that stands the test of time. At Apposta, these principles of quality are present in every shirt that we create.

Fabric: The Foundation of the Shirt

The fabric is the foundation of any dress shirt. It dictates a shirt's drape, breathability, and how it feels against your skin.

Natural Fibers

Natural fibers such as cotton and linen are valued for their inherent properties. Properties include breathability, moisture-wicking and comfort. Unlike many synthetic materials, natural fibers allow air to circulate freely, keeping you cool and dry.

Fine Cottons

Within the category of cotton, fiber length, or "staple," is important. Longer staples produce finer, stronger yarns, resulting in fabrics that are luxurious and durable.

• Egyptian Cotton: Prized for its exceptional softness, strength, and subtle luster.
• Supima Cotton: A premium American-grown cotton boasting impressive durability and vibrant colour retention.
• Sea Island Cotton: The rarest and most prized variety of cotton. Known for its extraordinary silkiness and delicate sheen.

Fine Linen

Linen, derived from the flax plant, offers unparalleled breathability. Its hollow fibers allow for excellent airflow, making it perfect for hot weather. Normandy linen, which originates in France, is the gold standard.

Thread Count

Thread count refers to the number of threads woven per square inch of fabric. A higher thread count generally means a finer, denser weave. This contributes to a smoother, more durable fabric. The thread count on its own does not signify quality. It must be considered alongside the quality of the fabric's yarn.

Yarn Twist Number

The strength of a yarn is influenced by the number of times its fibers are twisted together. Double and triple twisted yarns are significantly stronger. They are also resistant to pilling.

Fabric Origin

A shirt’s quality can be understood by observing the origin of its fabric. At Apposta, we partner with renowned mills such as Albini, Canclini, Thomas Mason, and D&J Anderson. These fabric suppliers are all known for their longstanding track records of excellence.

Construction: The Mark of Craftsmanship

Beyond the fabric, the construction of a dress shirt reveals its true quality.

Pattern Matching

Precise pattern matching (especially at seams where stripes or checks meet) is a signifier of quality craftsmanship.

Stitching

The quality of stitching speaks volumes about a shirt's durability. Look out for:

Fine Threads

Finer threads create discreet yet robust seams. We use 150-count cotton threads for the construction of our seams.

High Stitch Density

A greater number of stitches per centimeter creates a stronger, more resilient seam. We use 8 stitches per centimeter.

Single-Needle Stitching

We use a double one-needle stitching technique. This method creates neat, flat joints that are incredibly strong.

Collar and Cuffs

The collar and cuffs are integral parts of a shirt which need careful craftsmanship. Aspects to consider include:

• Interlining: A quality interlining provides structure and shape retention. It will prevent a shirt's collar and cuffs from deforming or wrinkling. Our linings are made from shrink tested cotton.
• Reinforced Stitching: Dense, even stitching further strengthens these crucial areas, maintaining their crispness.
• Collar Stays: Removable or fixed collar stays ensure the collar points remain stiff.

Buttons and Buttonholes

These seemingly small details can make a big difference. Button details to consider are:

• Button Attachment: Buttons should be firmly secured to prevent them from loosening or detaching. We seal all our shirt buttons after they have been attached.
• Extra Placket Button: An extra button at the bottom of a shirt's placket keeps the shirt's hem tidy. This is included on all Apposta shirts.
• Stitched Buttonholes: Densely stitched buttonholes provide structural integrity and should lie flat against the shirt's fabric.

The Hem

A precisely finished hem, free from loose threads or unevenness, is a non-negotiable for a well-made shirt.

Stitching

Our shirt hems have a 5mm stitching finish, which is a mark of high-quality shirtmaking.